Issue 1: Hollywood

Discover a locally curated guide to the city's finest experiences

    • ISSUE 1: hollywood

      tortilla republic

      Mexican food is ubiquitous in Los Angeles. While the city has some great taco trucks—perfect for after-hours when trying to locate a taxi at 3:00 am—when you want to enjoy the cuisine in a relaxed, fun setting, this is the place to go. Sit on the patio, catch glimpses of celebrities wandering by, drink strong margaritas, and order the pork chop with grilled asparagus or the lobster enchiladas in a dreamy truffled tomatillo sauce. For something lighter and brighter, order the jicama tacos—chipotle-spiced shrimp wrapped in paper-thin wrappers made from the vegetable itself.

    • The exterior of The Redbury. Photo courtesy of The Redbury

      ISSUE 1: hollywood

      the redbury

      Colorful both inside and out, this boutique hotel contains a hip wonderland that is anything but predictable. With paisley wallpaper, record players and outlandish details like oversized clocks and red-and-yellow color schemes, The Redbury somehow makes it all work. Ask for a room with a patio, and don’t miss the excellent Lebanese restaurant, Cleo, where fresh-baked flatbreads drizzled with yogurt, lemon and olive oil make for killer late-evening fare.

      Co-owner and chef de cuisine Kajsa Alger. Photographs by Anne Fishbein
      Vietnamese corn.
      Malaysian black pepper clams.
      Paani puri (filled puffed bread).
      • ISSUE 1: hollywood


        Take a break from the happy cacophony of Hollywood with the architectural equivalent of a juice cleanse. The Schindler House was designed by Vienna-born Rudolf M. Schindler, whose employer Frank Lloyd Wright inspired his modern design aesthetic. A flat concrete slab serves as the base for this imaginative duplex, which was intended to accommodate two young couples. With its open floor plan and relatively tight living quarters, it’s a marvel of a place (and it’s free to walk through on Fridays from 4pm to 6pm). Ponder whether you could share 3,500 square feet with three other people as you wander.

        A cocktail, a book and a typewriter at Hemingway's Lounge. Photograph by Anne Fishbein
      • Lounges by the Petit Ermitage pool.

        ISSUE 1: hollywood

        petit ermitage

        There are plenty of pools in Hollywood, but this saltwater one—ringed by kumquat trees, intricate tiled walls and cabanas—is something to see. It’s on the roof of Petit Ermitage, a European-style hotel with a great view of Hollywood. Lounge and sip a French 75 between dips, wander through the roof’s butterfly sanctuary (which is recognized by the National Wildlife Federation), or dine by candelight at sunset. The rooms are pretty and elegantly appointed, and the hotel’s art collection is divine, but you’ll spend most of your time poolside.

        Bradley Cooper & Jennifer Lawrence. Photographs by Charley Gallay
        Harry Shum Jr. & Jack McBrayer.
        The Weinstein Company's SAG Awards After Party.
        Actors Jared Harris and Damian Lewis.
        • ISSUE 1: hollywood


          Ignore all the rail-thin model types with their quinoa, salads and green juices wandering listlessly around town. If you’re a carnivore and you’re craving steak, this is the place to go. It’s glitzy and scene-y—celebrities often wander in and get snapped by paparazzi—and the food is marvelous. We like the tender bone-in ribeye and the crisp, satisfying Parmesan fries drizzled with a touch of truffle oil. Wrap up your evening with a nightcap at the bar (or start round two)!)

        • Regen Projects at night. Photograph by Anne Fishbein

          ISSUE 1: hollywood


          Fans of art and architecture alike will flip for this unique gallery, a former post-production studio with a 4,000-square-foot gallery space. President Shaun Caley Regen recently expanded to this new location, and it’s proof of just how much of a contender Los Angeles is for the title of top art city in the nation. Regen helped launch Matthew Barney’s career back in 1991, and since then has been a champion of artists such as Anish Kapoor, Catherine Opie, Doug Aitken and Raymond Pettibon—the sort of work you can expect to see here. Don’t miss the roof sculpture deck, which has a great view and wonderful light.

          Night + Market restaurant. Photographs by Anne Fishbein
          Kaffir limes
          Som tum (papaya salad)
          Chef Kris Yenbamroong
        • Rosewater sorbet and pistachio, lavender and strawberry cheesecake ice cream cones. Photograph by Anne Fishbein

          ISSUE 1: hollywood


          Strolling about in the perfect Los Angeles weather is that much better with an ice cream cone in hand. Here’s where the locals go. In the 1980s this bare-bones ice cream parlor was called Mugsy Malone’s, but the two Iranian brothers who bought it could only afford to replace half the sign. Thus, Mashti Malone’s was born. Look for rosewater sorbet—a Persian delicacy—and unique flavors like orange blossom and lavender ice creams. These treats are as aromatic as they are delicious; there’s a reason local restaurants stock Mashti’s.

        • Photograph by Rachel Jackson Cinespia

          ISSUE 1: hollywood


          Make like a local if you’re here on a Saturday night in the summertime, and go watch a movie in a cemetery. Yes, really: buy a cheap blanket, pack a picnic and a bottle of wine—it’s allowed here—and watch flicks such as Manhattan, Blade Runner and Dirty Dancing, all screened on the back wall of a mausoleum. It’s a campy, social evening out, and so popular here you’ll want to buy tickets in advance and arrive early. This is Hollywood at its best.

          Musso & Frank Waiters. Photographs by Anne Fishbein
          Cocktail at Musso and Frank Grill.
          The famous martini.
          Bread and butter.
          • ISSUE 1: hollywood

            chateau marmont

            Best known for cameos alongside boldface names such as Lindsay Lohan and Sofia Coppola, the Chateau Marmont is still worth a visit nearly a century after it was built. Posh and exclusive, its pricey bungalows and suites have been home to A-listers from F. Scott Fitzgerald to Hunter S. Thompson. It is also famously the site of John Belushi’s fatal drug overdose in 1982. All that said, it’s still a beauty, and if you can’t spring for a room, make a reservation for a meal in the garden. The modern American offerings are shockingly good (we liked the poached bass). Even the bar is beautiful here, so get dressed up, pretend to be famous, and brazen your way in for some of the best people watching in town.

          • Photograph by Anne Fishbein

            ISSUE 1: hollywood

            il piccolino

            Sometimes the tastiest food is found in the most unexpected places. And although Il Piccolino isn’t trendy or buzzy, it has some of the best Italian cuisine around. So sidle up next to the older Hollywood folks in their pearls and sweater sets, look at what they’re eating—it’s probably loaded with super-fresh seafood, which is fantastic here—and order the burrata, a round shell of mozzarella containing shredded mozzarella soaked in cream (exactly as delicious as it sounds). Make a reservation here; this place is a hit among locals.

            Photograph by Anne Fishbein
          • Photograph by Anne Fishbein

            ISSUE 1: hollywood

            see live music

            A cluster of storied live music venues dot Hollywood, including The Roxy, The Viper Room and Troubadour. Each has its own distinct history and magic, but Troubadour has been knocking it out of the park on the indie-rock front, featuring acts including Built to Spill, Robyn Hitchcock, Thao & the Get Down Stay Down and Stereo Total. Take a look at all three venues’ calendars, and book in advance; these shows sell out quick!

            Fried chicken sandwich. Photographs by Anne Fishbein
            Smoked mahi fish dip.
            Flourless chocolate cake with bananas, peanuts and coconut ice cream.
            Mini lobster roll.
          • Photograph by Frances Perez.

            ISSUE 1: hollywood

            runyon canyon

            After you’ve eaten, drunk and shopped your way around Hollywood, take a few hours to center yourself again and appreciate California’s natural beauty. Runyon Canyon is a 160-acre park with what many call the best dog park in America, free daily yoga classes and plenty of trails to hike and picnic upon. Sunrise and sunset are the most beautiful times here, but any time is a good time to fall in love with the City of Angels.